Sunday, March 24, 2019

Eat Fries Everyday


Turns out I have no greater pleasure in life than walking into a store and giving a cheerful, “Bonjour!!” as is the custom here. I feel like I’m about to break out into song from Beauty and the Beast.

I’m currently on the train heading to the airport. I’m trying to quick get all my thoughts out of my fingers now, because I know that history has proven I’m not likely to post anything (except maybe a video) once I’m home.

We’ve spent the last few days in Belgium. We’ve eaten fries everyday (no regrets), and had our fair share of waffles, chocolate, and beer. Fun fact: “French fries” are actually Belgian. Americans were first exposed to them in the French speaking part of Belgium during WWII, and so the name was acquired.

I’m not sure where to start, so I guess I’ll go chronologically.

YPRES
Our first day in Belgium, we took off for the Western side of the country. There is apparently an Abbey that brews the best beer in the world, and considering who I’m married to, this was not an opportunity we were going to pass up.  The only problem is, it’s an abbey rather in the middle of no where. . . with no public transportation. So we trained to the nearest town, rented bikes, and hit the (tiny) road! I really, really loved the bike ride through the back country. Little houses, hops fields (vineyards?), and lots of open fields. It was really lovely to be out there. We made a small detour to visit one of the WWI Flanders Fields cemeteries, which was a unique experience. War feels far removed in the United States – something that happens far away from home. But here there are reminders and remembrances and remnants of war around every corner (which you’ll see more throughout my post). I can’t help but think it influences the different ways we approach war now.

Eventually, we did make it to the abbey, and we were able to try the trappist beer that is only offered there. What is a trappist beer? Well, I’m glad you asked. A trappist beer is any beer that is 1) brewed within the abbey grounds, 2) by monks, 3) and the proceeds from which go only toward funding the needs of the abbey or charity.

As could be expected, the beer was delicious. We also had some (a lot) of abbey cheese, which was super yummy. And then we biked back to the town.

On our train ride back, we stopped off at the WWI museum for Flanders Fields. It was an interesting museum and taught me a lot about WWI I didn’t know.

Ken’s Thoughts: I really enjoyed our time here. The city is beautiful, as is the countryside. And the adventure of biking out in the Belgian country to the trappist restaurant was a ton of fun. The beer at the abbey was exceptional, and I see why everyone loves it so much - as was the trappist beer float (like a rootbeer float). Combining that with the great WWI museum, this day really was a highlight of the trip for me. That's all my thoughts. 

BRUSSELS
We spent the next day in the city of Brussels.  We had a tour in the morning, and it was fun to learn the history of the city. I had booked the tour via AirBnB, and apparently nobody else did, so we ended up with a private tour! Our host was knowledgeable and passionate about his city. The town square is beautiful – even Victor Hugo said it’s the most beautiful square in the world. After the tour, we went out for lunch (mussels & mussel pasta) and continued exploring the city (and eating chocolate).

Ken's Thoughts: The tour with our guide was a ton of fun, and extremely informative. I really think that the Grand Place (town square) in Brussels is one of the prettiest places I've ever been. I really enjoyed all the food in Brussels, but I really want to highlight the fries, the chocolate, and the beer. All amazing. I think that's all my thoughts.

BASTOGNE
Then two days ago, we trained then bussed our way out to Bastogne – where the WWII museum is and a monument to those who fought in the Battle of the Bulge. Both of us had great uncles who fought in this battle, so it seemed worth the trek. Honestly, I think we were expecting to take the three hours to get out there, look around for a bit, then come back.

It turned out that the WWII museum there is INCREDIBLE. I don’t think I’ve ever been in a better museum. Maybe equal – but never better. And I don’t think I’ve ever been in a museum where I was as determined to read every word. Luckily, Ken felt the same way (othewise it would have been a frustrating trip for both of us). But we crept through the museum at a snail’s pace and ended up spending about five hours there. Because of my major, books I’ve read, etc. I know a lot about the concentration camp/”Final Solution” side of the WWII. However, I don’t think I fully appreciated how woefully ignorant I was about the rest of what was going on. What I  loved about this museum is that they stared their WWII museum with WWI, which is important to understand the political climate of what lead into the Germans electing Hitler and all that followed. It was also a super engaging museum – with audio and visual components, movies, and things to interact with.

The focus of the museum (if you can even say that – since they did such justice to the components surrounding it as well) was the Battle of the Bulge. I had heard about the battle, but I didn’t understand what it was or why it was important. I was so thankful to the museum for building out my knowledge.

After we crept through the museum (seriously – so slowly), we walked over to see the HUGE monument erected to the Americans who fought in the battle. All the states were listed, as well as all of the companies (as in military companies, not business companies) who contributed. I found my (great) Uncle Murray’s company. It’s strange to remember that this all what’s that this all wasn’t that long ago.

Ken’s Thoughts: Bastogne had one of the best museums, if no the best museum, I've ever been to. I've never read every panel in a museum, nor have I ever had the interest to, but I couldn't get enough of the information there. If you are ever in Belgium and have any interest in WWI or WWII history, I couldn't recommend a trip out to Bastogne higher. It was also really nice seeing how the local town still really appreciated the sacrifice of all the soldiers that fought to defend that area. I also thought that the monument erected there in honor of the soldiers that fought in the Battle of the Bulge was really tastefully done. It all really was beautiful, respectful, and informative. Also, the Ardennes forest was really beautiful - the surrounding countryside. I think that's all my thoughts. 

BRUGES
There’s not much to say about Bruges. We went yesterday, and it’s a lovely little medieval city with moats, canals, and beautiful old buildings. We were glad to have gone early, because before too long, it was full of tourists to an overwhelming degree (yes, I know we we’re tourists too). Once the town got too full, we headed home (to Brussels).

Ken’s Thoughts: Bruges is really quaint and pretty. It's lovely to just walk around there. I found a half day in Bruges to be the perfect amount, personally. Shout out to the delicious pasta on the go shop we stumbled across. I think that's all my thoughts.

ENDING THOUGHTS
And now – here we are. Now at the airport, ready to head home. Maybe not ready to head home, but waiting to head home nonetheless. I’m holding down the fort and watching our stuff right now while Ken goes off looking for something in the stores. Then we’ll swap, and I’ll forage for a book in English to read on the plane. That’s one of the things I love about travel – the chance to slow down and read. I’m nearly done with the one I’m reading, and by the time I’ve finished that, I will have read five novels since we left home. I feel like I’ve lived as many lives.

This has been a fantastic trip. I love any time I get to spend with Ken, and it’s especially fun when it’s in new territory. I could probably write more – more thoughts about where we went, or how thankful I am to not care about  my Instagram (it’s looks like an exhausting pressure while traveling!), or how I don’t feel brave to be traveling without a phone – as people called me. But instead, I think I’m going to call it good.

Ken's Thoughts: I loved all of this trip, but I was shocked at just how much I enjoyed Prague and the Czech Republic. I knew I would love Belgium, but I didn't know what to expect in Prague. I whole heartedly recommend visiting both of these places. I think that's all my thoughts. 

Thanks for reading!


Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Well, That Went Quickly




Well, that went quickly.

We’re back at the airport, wondering where the week went. Prague will soon be behind us, or below us, rather, as we take up for Brussels.

Prague in numbers:
1 brewery visited (Pilsner Urquell!)
2 castles explored (Prague & Cesky Krumlov)
3 “day trips” outside of the city
4 (x10,000) humans-worth of bones displayed in the Kunta Hora bone church
5 drinks we tried at the award winning cocktail bar Le Fleur (over multiple days – don’t worry)
6 days in the Czech Republic

We’ve really loved our time here. I don’t know where to start. . . do I just give chronologies of everything we’ve done? Organize it categorically? I don’t know. Maybe let’s go with categories and see how that goes.

THE CITY OF PRAGUE


The city of Prague is beautiful, and being here with Ken is magical. Some of you know that Ken and I almost came to Prague a few years ago – while we were still dating. Some things came up and we ended up canceling the trip just a few days before we were set to depart. Since then, I’ve always wanted to complete that story and explore this city with Ken. Being here with him now as my husband felt like a missing puzzle piece in my heart and in our story finally got settled into place. My highlight of the trip was just exploring the city hand in hand with him, especially at night when the city calms down and the lights come up to highlight the Charles Bride, castle, church, and clock. I really like (and love) that guy.


We did a lot in the city. Our first morning, we did a walking tour with a Prague local which was fantastic. Definitely top 2 walking tours I’ve ever done – maybe top 1. We got a good feel for the city, history, and culture, and had a lot of fun doing it. Everything we did in the city runs together – explored Prague Castle, saw the beautiful libraries in the monasteries (that would put the Beast’s libraries to shame), saw a concert of a string orchestra in a beautiful building, wandered endlessly throughout the streets, explored the Jewish Quarters (museums, beautiful synagogues, an ancient cemetery), ate beef tartar (raw beef) at a butcher shop, shopped for jewelry (eeee!), visited churches, watch the clock strike, visited bookstores, ate a lot, read a lot, and on and on. It is really a beautiful city. We stayed right outside of Old Town, so everything was walkable. I think I would have become a lot fitter during my time in Prague, were it not for all the potatoes/dumplings/goulash/bread/cheese I’ve been having. . . oh well.

Ken’s Thoughts: I loved it. I think that it’s really special how the town itself feels old. It’s not like Rome where amongst the new buildings, there are a number of old things sticking out. It feels like the city of Prague itself is very old, but lived in my modern people. I loved the sites, and how around every corner, you didn’t know what treasure you’d find next. I enjoyed the emphasis on art and performing arts that the town seemed to have. And I loved trying out all the different aspects of Czech cuisine. I don’t understand how the carrots and the cabbage or so good. I also really enjoyed the beer. It was fun having extremely good Pilsners. I think I’ll miss the striking beauty of all the different parts of Old Town. I also think that Petr’s tour was the best tour. I think that’s all my thoughts.



DAY TRIPS
KUNTA HORA - We did three day trips outside the city. The first was to the city of Kunta Hora, which is a city about an hour-ish outside the city that is home to the the bone church. Essentially, after the plague passed through the area, there were more bodies than they had space to deal with (about 30,000). After the battle with the Hussites added 10,000 more, they started getting creative. The ultimate result was the bone church – a church “decorate” with 40,000 people worth of human bones.

There’s a chandelier that uses every bone in the human body. There’s a crest of arms. There are 4 pyramids 16 feet tall of bones. There are garlands of skulls. Being there.  . . strange, to say the least. The goal of the “art” (?) was to show that we are all equal in front of God, and the brevity of human life. I would say mission accomplished. It’s interesting – some sites you feel like you get your fill of. You can say, “okay, I’m content. I feel like I’ve seen this and have processed what I’m seeing.” Not so here. I think we could have stayed for hours and hours and never reached the point where we felt like we wrapped our mind around what we were seeing. This was my second time there, and it was no less eerie and beautiful and bizarre and harrowing. I don’t think anyone can ever feel content with the time they spend there. There is no way to comprehend it.

Ken’s Thoughts: It was striking and oddly beautiful at the same time. I felt like I could stare at it for hours or days and still feel like I wasn’t comprehending what I was looking at. I think it was one of the most unique things I’ve ever seen, and I’m really glad I saw it. That’s all my thoughts.

CESKY KRUMLOV – Cesky Krumlov is a small town in the south of Czeh that has somehow been untouched by time. Czech’s own Brigadoon (isn’t that what that play is about?). It has a giant castle and a little village, and even the “old time” videos they were playing in the museum looked like they could have been filmed yesterday. We spent a day there, wandering the cobbled streets, eating (a theme of this trip) and exploring. It was a wonderful, delightful, quiet day.

Ken’s Thoughts: I thought it was just a picturesque little town, and I really enjoyed exploring it. I don’t know if I have much else to say.

PILSNER URQUELL – The birthplace of the lager, apparently, and the pride & joy of Czech. We bussed to a town a bit west of Prague to go to this brewery. The brewery was huge and different from any brewery we had been to before – probably because it was the oldest brewery we had ever been to before, and they had to account for things like fluctuating weather before there was modern climate control (result: tunnels!). Cool tour, and we got to try unfiltered, unpasteurized beer.


Ken’s Thoughts: It was a lot of fun! It was the largest scale brewery tour I’d ever been on, and I actually learned a lot. It was fun tasting their unfiltered, unpasteurized beer fresh from the barrel. I think that’s all my thoughts.

OTHER THOUGHTS/THINGS I FORGOT
It started snowing as I was sitting in the airport writing this! I’ve enjoyed the (cold!) weather. This was the first sprinkling of snow, and we’ve had a few splashes of rain, but otherwise, it’s just been delightfully cold. I love being all bundled up (boots, jacket, scarf, hat/ear warmers, gloves!) and cozy outside in the cold weather. We’ve also discovered that every inside room is somehow the perfect temperature. Well done, Prague. Fun fact: my scarf is from here (thanks Ken!), my jacket & boots were gifted by my grandparents when we almost came here 6 years ago (thanks Poppy!), my ear warmer thing and favorite socks are from Ireland (thanks Ken!), and my beanie and gloves are from Yellowstone (thanks parents!).


Another fun thing – my cousin Nicko happens to be studying abroad in Prague right now! So we were able to meet up with him for dinner last night at a really amazing little hold in the wall restaurant (capacity: 20 . . . maybe) that was recommended to him. Delicious and fun to catch up! The last time we saw him, Ken and I had only been dating for a few months, and I think he was 13. It was great catching up!


Also, I forgot to mention we went to the public library to see the book tower. It was just as cool as it was on Facebook. Well done, Prague.

Overall, I loved my time in Czech, and it was made all the better by having a wonderful man by my side. I feel like these blogs used to be filled with adventure and daring, and now they’re just sappy sonnets gushing over my wonderful husband. I knew I was in for it when we were dating and I realized I liked him more than travel, which if you know me, is a lot. I guess that’s reflected in my blogs now. Sorry for the gushing. . .  but he’s really great, so it can’t be helped.




Ken’s Thoughts: How did I forget about the bar? I think the main thing about Czech Republic is it shattered my expectations in great ways. The people were always nice, the public transportation was always on time, the food was great, and it was just as pretty as people say. I wholeheartedly recommend visiting Prague. And I also agree with the local sentiment that a week there is about the right amount of time. Closing thought, since I forgot to mention earlier, the mixology bar that we went to was hands down the best bar I’ve ever been to, and had the best cocktails I’ve ever had. I learned a ton just talking with the bar tenders, and they were extremely friendly  - and generous. The presentation was remarkable, the flavors were perfect, and the people were really nice. I really enjoyed talking with the bartenders – their stories of winning Best Cocktail and Best Bartender in worldwide competitions. If anyone ever goes to Prague, to go Le Fleur. Best cocktails you’ll ever have, for about $12USD. I love Prague. It was great. I think that’s all my thoughts.



We’re now on the plane, and Ken is cracking open our Belgium Lonely Planet. Bring on the waffles!

(P.S. Sorry for the low quality photos! I - now posting from Belgium - reduced the resolution a lot so that they'd upload quickly and I could go eat some fries. Thanks for understanding.)

Wednesday, March 13, 2019

Here We Go Again!



I think I've mentioned it before, but every time we set off on a new adventure, it's with that treadmill song from OK Go from a few (10?!?!) years back playing in my head like a theme song - here it goes again! (...except in my head, it's here WE go again. . .)

So, here we go again!

We left Monday morning, and a walk, light rail, 2 barts, 3 planes, a bus, and a taxi later, we arrived at our AirBnB in PRAGUE!

Slept like rocks last night. Now it's Wednesday, and we're excited to go explore the city.

Just wanted to put up a quick post to let you (Mom) know that we're safe and here.

Love you all!